Your guide to the Faroe Islands: From enchanting waterfalls to an island with Puffins, THESE are the best things to SEE & DO and the Best Places to stay & eat on your next Faroese adventure.
Halfway between Iceland and Scotland lies a rugged, fairytale-like archipelago laden with breathtaking natural wonders, called the Faroe Islands. First settled in the Viking Age, the 18 volcanic islands are now part of the Danish Kingdom. While the destination does have a strong Scandinavian vibe, the self-governing islands are very much their own, unique place. Take a short Atlantic Airways flight from Reykjavik, Edinburgh or Denmark, and find yourself in a magical, remote destination with jaw-dropping topography, grass roof houses, and more sheep than people. Spend your time hiking epic landscapes, birdwatching on the island of puffins, and dining at one insanely special Michelin-star restaurant. As our fishing boat captain so wisely said, ‘In the Faroe Islands, nature is smack in your face’.
With an impressive inter-island infrastructure comprised of highways and tunnels, you’ll most definitely want to rent a car for the trip. It’s the best way to get around and nothing is really more than an hour from the capital city of Tórshavn.
Best Things to Do in the Faroe Islands
Múlafossur Waterfall in Gásadalur
Múlafossur Waterfall in Gásadalur is one of those natural wonders you see in a photograph and say, “Let’s go!”. Luckily for travelers, it’s just as stunning in person, and unlike in Iceland, you could be the only one standing there taking it all in. Marvel at the powerful falls, watch the sea birds diving off the cliffside into the mist, and notice the picturesque 12-person village of Gásadalur nestled into the emerald hillside just beyond. Múlafossur Waterfall is the perfect first-thing to do in the Faroe Islands once you’ve landed. It’s located just 15 minutes east of the airport, in the opposite direction of the city of Tórshavn. While small in size, the village of Gásadalur is growing. Prior to 2004, the only way of reaching the isolated area on the island of Vágar was by helicopter, boat, or an intense mountain hike. Once they blasted a tunnel through the mountains, Gásadalur became reachable by car. They even have a café in town now!
Hike the Most photographed spot in the Faroe Isands: Lake Sørvágsvatn, Trælanípa, and Bøsdalafossur Waterfall
While the names are certainly tongue-twisters for us, this place is truly one of the most rugged and magical on the planet. Lake Sørvágsvatn (also known as Lake Leitisvatn) is known for a little optical illusion created by none other than Mother Nature herself. The lake appears to sit significantly higher than the ocean due the slanted nature of the surrounding cliffs, when it’s really only about 80ft up. The 35-45-minute hike out there, about 3 miles there and back, is very doable for most skill levels and only gets relatively steep at the end. The straightforward path runs you along the shores Lake Sørvágsvatn and directly up to the cliffs of Trælanípa. Bøsdalafossur waterfall lies at the very end, where the lake drops into the ocean. The entire scene is nothing short of spectacular and the rugged coastline juxtaposed with the serene lake setting will leave you in awe. Bring a picnic and sit out on the top of the highest cliff and slowly take in the epic views.
See the Puffins on Mykines
Mykines, only accessible by boat or helicopter, is world-famous for it’s abundant birdlife, which includes the wildly adorable puffin. In late spring, thousands of puffins migrate to the island of Mykines to nest for the summer months. Book your 40-min ferry or 10-min helicopter ride over (oddly, they’re similarly priced), and spend the day hiking out to the iconic lighthouse and ogling over this puffin paradise. Recently, new guidelines have been introduced, where all Mykines-goers must now pay an admission fee (DKK 100 per person) used to help preserve and protect the birdlife and environment. There are also guides, who help inform you when it’s time to return to the ferry. Once you’ve finished up your hike and puffin-obsessing, then refuel at the only café situated in the teeny tiny town! Roundtrip, the ferry leaves from Sørvágur (just past the airport on the island of Vágar) at 10:20a.m. and departs from Mykines for the return trip at 4:20pm. Tickets and timetables here: Mykines Ferry. The ferry generally runs from May 1 to August 31st. The last day of our trip was May 1st, and the ferry was unfortunately (slash devastatingly) canceled due to bad weather. So, we’ll have to return for the puffins another time and use this cute-y photo from someone else instead! Lesson: book you Mykines day-trip towards the start of your travels, in case bad weather requires you to adjust the day!
See the Enchanting Grass-Roof Village of Saksun
The remote hillside village of Saksun lies on the shores of a tranquil turquoise lagoon cradled by rugged fjords. The enchanting village has 14 inhabitants, loads of grazing sheep, grass-roof houses, and a picturesque church built in 1858. Located on the northern part of island of Streymoy, it takes just under an hour to reach Saksun from Tørshavn by car. The drive into the village is incredibly captivating as you wind through a valley floor passing countless sheep, waterfalls, and beautiful vistas. If it’s a nice day (keeping in mind the weather changes on a dime), pack a picnic to bring along with you and soak in the magical of Saksun.
GO Boutique Shopping in TÓrshavn
Named after the Norse God of War, Tórshavn is the colorful seaside capital of the Faroe Islands. While its history traces back to the Vikings, today, the streets are lined with wonderful café and boutique shops filled with local goods. For that fine Faroese wool and the best hand-knit sweaters in town, head to Gudrun & Gudrun. Öström is another great Faroese shop with a mix of chic clothing, decor, and home-goods. Next door to Öström, you’ll find Steinprent, a cool lithographic gallery. Don’t forget to check out their workshop upstairs! If you need to refuel between stores, Paname Café has the best coffee and pastries around! More on what to do in Tórshavn: here.
Visit TiNganes
The two small harbors of Tórshavn are divided by a narrow neck of land that juts out like a mini peninsula. Known as Tinganes, it’s home to what were the first parliament buildings on the islands. Meander through and admire the history and beauty of these tell-tale red buildings, which are still in use today. The first parliament meeting occurred in 825 A.D. during the Viking Age, making it one of the oldest assemblies in the world.
Brave the tunnels to explore the remote Northern Islands
The Faroe Islands is a remote destination in and of itself, but if you really want to get out there for some exploration and adventure, drive out to the northern islands for the an afternoon. We set our sites on Kunoy and it did not disappoint. While rain poured and the wind whipped, the weather only added to the feeling of truly being on the outskirts. The further out you drive, the more narrow and heart-stopping (slash claustrophobic) the inter-island tunnels become. The thrill pays off though, because on the other side you’ll fine rugged landscapes that have barely felt the presence of humankind. On Kunoy, there are only three villages, Haraldsund and Kunoy, each with only a handful of inhabitants, and Skarð. According to the Faroese Tourism Board, “the third village, Skarð, located at the northern end of Haraldssund, was abandoned in the winter of 1919 in the wake of a great tragedy that occurred right before Christmas in 1913. All the grown men in the village were lost at sea, and the only survivors where the women and children, a 14 year old youth and an old man. Today, it is popular to hike from Haraldsund to Skarð. The trip takes several hours. The experience of hiking this historical path, once walked by these men engulfed by the sea, will make you feel small compared to the power of nature”. Kunoy, along with other islands like Viðoy, Borðoy, and Kalsoy – home the statue of Selkie, the legendary seal woman – are the Faroe Islands at its wildest!
MARVEL AT THE GORGE IN Gjógv
Drive out to the cool, craggy village of Gjógv for a wonderful half-day trip (you can even hit Saksun on that same adventure, too). The hour drive from Tórshavn winds through the mountains and opens up at the end to a grassy field dotted with sheep and the picturesque village of Gjógv on the coastline just beyond. Once you see it, you get it. Gjógv means gorge in Faroese, and the village is certainly set on an epic one. The dramatic, distinct rock formation consists of sheer cliffs on either side of a valley where river meets ocean. There are trails on either side of the gorge, so be sure to walk out for the best views. Afterward, stroll around the 50-person town of well-preserved houses and grab lunch-wit-a -view at Gjáargarður Guesthouse.
GO FISHING WITH MAGNI BLÁstein
Fishing has been at the core of Faroese culture for centuries. It’s their largest industry, and you’ll notice loads of circular-net salmon farms in that water just off the shoreline. These waters supply a lot of the fish for U.S. sushi market! The North Atlantic fishing spot is rife with species like cod, plaice, haddock, ling, and more, and you have to get out for a fun day of fishing. Captain Magni is an excellent fisherman, and we had a great morning inshore fishing between the islands. Not to mention, it’s an incredible perspective to see the Faroe Islands from the water.
Stalk the Shaggy Sheep and Wildlife
Stalk sheep? Yep, you might think it’s weird, but then you can’t help it. The Faroese landscape is laden with shaggy sheep. These guys are grazing on every hillside, prancing around in your hotel parking lot, and maybe-maybe not moving out of the way of your car. They exemplify the serene Faroese setting, where there are plenty more animals than people. Snap those pics (at a respectful distance, of course) and capture the Faroe Islands in a nutshell. Come late April / early May just about every momma sheep has a newborn lamb or two frolicking by her side. At every turn a little baby is figuring out how to walk or mimicking it’s mother. Other animals include hairy Highland Cows, cattle, horses, ponies, and plenty of unique birds – like the puffin! And there generally aren’t any predators here (so no snakes, Mike!).
Fun fact: By 2016, Google still had not graced the Faroe Islands with ‘Street View’ capabilities, so they took matters into their own hands. They strapped cameras onto roaming sheep and created Sheep View 360!
BEST RESTAURANTS IN THE FAROE ISLANDS | WHERE TO EAT
A Meal to remember at KOKS REStaurant
If you’re thinking of visiting the Faroe Islands, stop, drop everything, and book a table at KOKS. The Michelin-star restaurant is guaranteed to be one the most amazing memorable meals of your life, and they can book up a full season in advance. With Poul Andrias Ziska at the helm, these avant-garde chefs focus on bringing the smells and tastes of the Faroese landscape to life through ancient practices – like drying, fermenting, salting, and smoking. Your dining experience begins lakeside at a ‘hjaller’, a traditional Faroese drying shed with slits on both sides that allow the fabled North Atlantic winds to whip through and dry out hanging meat or fishing. From there, you hop in their old Land Rover and head around the hillside to the restaurant where you’ll embark on a culinary journey like no other. The dynamic tasting menu consists of dishes like skerpikjøt, a Faroese delicacy of wind cured lamb, and their exquisite grilled langoustines, a signature dish. KOKS is not just a restaurant, it’s a world-class experience.
Feast on Fresh Catch at Barbara’s Fish house
Nestled in the center of Tórshavn lies a pocket of grass-roofed buildings, centuries old, which have been converted into some of the best restaurants in town. Packed with character, each of these restaurants is wonderful, but Barbara’s Fish House takes the cake. Just kick back and order the tasting the menu to enjoy dishes like monk fish ceviche, salmon tartare, and Barbara’s famous fish soup – all brilliantly paired with a well-curated selection of Spanish wine.
Other Standout Restaurants
Áarstova for an exceptional local meal, cozy ambiance, and great lamb. Panamé Café for the best coffee and pastries in the morning. Etika for a tasty and trendy sushi spot (or grab their sushi boxes for lunch to-go during the day – fresh as gets!).
BEST HOTELS IN THE FAROE ISLANDS | Where to stay
Hotel Havgrím
Brand new as of 2018, Hotel Havgrím is an incredibly charming sea-side boutique hotel. With only 12 rooms, they offer wonderful service, a relaxing B&B feel, and luxurious touches like pillow-presents with turn-down service and L’Occitaine bath products. It may seem like a simple seaside spot when you first pull up, but you’ll quickly fall in love with this intimate, well-appointed boutique hotel. We certainly did, and it’s our top choice for a hotel stay in the Faroe Islands.
Hotel Føroyar
This well-known 4-star property lies on the hillside above Tørshavn, with panoramic views of the city below. The sleek grass-roof design of Hotel Føroyar blends seamlessly into the surrounding landscape, and the full gamut of facilities and amenities make it an ideal property for business or leisure. The lobby, lounge, and communal areas boast modern, minimalist Scandinavian design, while the guest-rooms are little more bright and airy. The best part about the property is the view from the rooms and the little square window you can open up to the grassy hillside. While the hotel is a little more busy and older than Hotel Havgrim, it offers the full array of facilities from it’s lovely hillside perch!
Travel TIPS + INFO for the Faroe Islands
+ Atlantic Airways flies direct from Reykjavik, Iceland, Edinburgh, Scotland, and Copenhagen, Demark. From New York City, it’s about a 5 hour flight to Iceland (via Delta Airlines on the way out and WOW Airlines on the way back) then an easy 1 hour flight over to Faroe. If you have a layover in Iceland, go the Blue Lagoon; it’s only 18 min away from Keflavík International Airport!
+ Rent-a-Car: By far the best way to get around; we used 62°N Car Rental and had a good experience; you’ll need to specify ‘Automatic Transmission’, if that’s what you want to drive!
+ We’re big fans on shoulder seasons and offseason for some destinations, but no the Faroe Islands. You really do want to come May through August (maybe a little into September) because the weather is significantly better, the landscape is green instead of brown, and everything is open.
+ Plan for at least 3-5 days: There’s a lot to see, and you would feel very rushed with anything less. The visit to Mykines alone takes an entire day (Puffin Island).
+ Consider bring snacks and water with you on drives, just because there aren’t tons of places to stop for food or drinks. Definitely no McDonalds here (hallelujah) and the gas stations are way nicer than you typically find in the States. They’re basically like mini markets with freshly baked bread and produce.
+ Make dinner reservations. We were surprised walk into a few casual dinner places to find they were fully booked for the night. There’s only a few tables at each eatery, so folks here make reservations. You definitely need to call ahead a day or two before for dinner at places like Aarstova, Etika, and Barbara’s Fish House. KOKS is a different story – you need to make a reservation here as far out as possible!
+ Bring a rain jacket, the weather changes constantly and without much notice.
+ Cell service is surprisingly great. We found service just about everywhere on the islands, even in a tunnel in the middle of the mountain!
+ Book the ferry (or helicopter) to visit Mykines (Puffin Islands) as one of the first days on your trip; if bad weather cancels it, you can rebook for another day.
MORE PHOTOS OF THE FAROE ISLANDS
