When the pandemic started back in March and everything closed down, a lot of our family traditions paused as well. For as long as we’ve been married, my husband and I have gone to brunch on Saturday. For the 6 years we lived in NYC, we alternated between The Spotted Pig and The Little Owl, so when we moved to Minneapolis two years ago, we immediately set out to find our local replacement. The first visit to Tilia was love at first bite.
At least once a week since the move in March 2018, we’ve walked the mile from our house down to Linden Hills village and enjoyed an insanely good meal at Tilia. Our daughter, Penny, who was born in June 2018, has been to Tilia more than she’s been to any other restaurant. So, for the first stretch of quarantine, we spent Saturday’s daydreaming about all the food we missed; biscuits and gravy with smokey poached eggs, Reuben croquettes, their ever-changing-always-delicious burger, a spinach salad that’s to die for, and their crazy good doughnut flavor that changes each week.
When they finally reopened for outdoor dining this summer, we made the first reservation we could. This time Penny, who’s 2 years old now, ordered for herself (the kid’s burger and the doughnut) and our son, a pandemic baby born this May, tagged along too. Going back to Tilia felt a lot like coming home. Maybe that sounds dramatic to people who can’t relate to our tradition, but Saturday brunch is something special for us — and we appreciate it even more after living a life in total lockdown for those few months.
The food at Tilia is amazing and it’s won plenty of awards over the years. A James Beard nominee and semifinalist several times over, Chef Steven Brown changed the menu a bit during quarantine, and while we were at first bummed that a few of our old favorites didn’t make the cut, the replacements are so insanely good we don’t miss the old stuff. Whether you order chilaquiles with runny eggs, ‘Shore Lunch’ Benedict with fried sunfish, mushroom toast with whipped ricotta, or the new burger with a California twist – you can’t go wrong.
The food there is amazing, but it’s the familiarity that is really something special. The staff (especially Nancy, Corrine, Danny and Benji – who Penny asks about constantly: “Mom, are we going to the westawant to see Benji today?”) know our daughter’s order and say hello to us by name. Even with masks on, their smiles are warm and welcoming and even at the brunch hour, you often see Chef Brown working the line.
This year has been a shitshow; politics are stressful, working from home is bizarre and a bit lonely, we miss seeing friends and family regularly, raising kids in the time of COVID is strange and at times, scary, and the pandemic isn’t over yet. But on Saturdays, just for an hour, we forget about all that. Penny eats her meal (usually while watching Daniel Tiger on our phone because hey- we like to enjoy ourselves, too!), the baby naps in the stroller, and my husband and I get to talk and enjoy a cocktail and killer meal in a place that feels comfortable and safe. For an hour, we feel normal and life right now doesn’t feel so overwhelming. Tilia does that for us, and for that, we are grateful.
And folks, they’ve got the heaters out and ready for you. Winter in Minnesota will be cold for sure, but it won’t feel as long or as dreary if you head to Tilia for a meal. We’ll be there, with bells on, every Saturday*.
*Since restaurants are shut down once again, Tilia is also open for take away from 4p-8p most days, so you can still bring an amazing Tilia meal home! Once restaurants are open again, reservations for dinner or brunch are made via Tock.
